Thursday, September 21
Sporting a new tire, our Boeing 747 touched down in Frankfort at dawn. Light rain was falling and the skies were grey. After collecting my luggage and renting a car, (a blue Ford station wagon) I made my first stab at driving on Germany’s famous Autobahn. In Germany all highways lead to Ausfhart. Actually the German word Ausfhart means exit. No matter where
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you drive, signs with an arrow seem to point you to this mythical village.
My plan was to meet my colleague Kurt Reichardt and his wife, Joyce in Worms, 60 kilometers south of Frankfort on the banks of the Rhine River. Kurt and Joyce had flow over the week before to scout out the various Luther locations. After a few uneasy turns in the rain, I was able to get my bearings and head south. Turning on the car radio, I was surprised to hear the Back Street Boys. American music dominates the German airwaves.
St. Peter’s Cathedral,
Worms.
Worms is an ancient city. Built by the Romans, Worms (pronounced Vorms) has a lot of charm. As you enter the city from the East, you drive over the Rhine and under tall gates that once formed a wall around the city. Here Holy Roman Emperor Charles I called Martin Luther to account for his writings before the Imperial Diet. His accusers insisted Luther recant his teachings that called into question the Popes fund raising methods, notably the sale of indulgences. Luther’s famous response, “Here I stand, I can do no other.” was a shot heard round the world. Today, a plaque marks the spot where Luther spoke. Next to the actual spot is the enormous St. Peter’s Cathedral. Built in 1200, it was standing 300 years before Luther got there.
After meeting up with Kurt and Joyce, we toured the city and had lunch. Then we to drove to Ebenkoben, a city 30 kilometers to the south. Kurt’s cousin, Werner, lives in this incredibly beautiful hamlet in
Germany’s Pfalzer wine growing region. Werner and his wife had lunch waiting for us. I also got to sample one of Germany’s famous beers. Very good.
My hotel was in the nearby village of Edesheim. It was like something out of a dream. Lush, green vineyards surround the quaint town. Narrow cobblestone streets, red tiled roofs and a church steeple make the little old men and women on bicycles fit right in. With jet lag kicking into high gear, I hung on till dinner and then crashed.
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